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Art History Virtual Exhibition

20th-century Andean-Mestizo Textile with Chimú or Moche Motifs: Researched and Conserved by Alyssa Cartier

February, 2023 by Malena Hemenway

Contemporary Peruvian textile artists are predominantly of mixed Andean and Spanish ancestry, and they illustrate a mastery of their craft that draws strongly upon this Andean-Mestizo heritage. Fine textiles served as symbols of wealth and socioeconomic status among Pre-Columbian Andean cultures because of the fine fabrics, their elaborate weaving techniques, and their labor-intensive designs.

Although this textile was created in the 20th century as a souvenir for the tourist-trade, the size and construction of the cloth indicates that the weaver created it using a traditional backstrap loom. This textile also features a repeated border design known as the stepped fret, a motif common throughout Pre-Columbian Andean cultures. The design combines two motifs that likely illustrate the land-water relationship of the Andean region. The stepped motif consists of stair-like steps, which likely symbolize terrace farming in the steep mountainous landscape of eastern Peru. The fret, meanwhile, is an angular spiral shape that likely depicts a wave that symbolizes water and the western coastline of Peru.

The central motif of this textile consists of two simplified figures with triangular torsos and headdresses. The zigzag patterns on the torsos likely illustrate simplified textile motifs, which may indicate region or societal ranking. The projecting headdresses derive from the extravagant, high-status headgear of the ancient Moche and Chimú cultures of northern Peru. These figures may therefore be generalized depictions of deities or supernatural beings — but they could also depict an elite member of Andean society, such as a religious practitioner, a political leader, or a high-status soldier.

Wall Hanging with Pre-Columbian Chimú/Moche Culture Motifs (Before)
Andean-Mestizo cultures
Late 20th century
Woven camelid wool textile and pigments
L. 56.5 cm x W. 5 mm x H. 1.07 m
BFPC collection #2016.31

 

Wall Hanging with Pre-Columbian Chimú/Moche Culture Motifs (After)
Andean-Mestizo cultures
Late 20th century
Woven camelid wool textile and pigments
L. 56.5 cm x W. 5 mm x H. 1.07 m
BFPC collection #2016.31

 

 

For more information, you may contact the researcher(s) noted in the title of this exhibit entry, or Dr. Billie Follensbee, the professor of the course, at BillieFollensbee@MissouriState.edu

 

Filed Under: 2021 Fall, ART/MST 488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts Tagged With: 20th century, andean mestizo culture, andean textiles, backstrap loom, camelid fur, chimu culture, Moche culture, peru, textile, tourist trade art, woven textile

Categories

  • 2014 Fall, ART/MST 488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts
  • 2014 Spring, ART 485: Art of Mesoamerica
  • 2015 Fall, ART/MST 488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts
  • 2016 Fall, ART 385: Art of the Americas
  • 2017 Fall, ART/MST 488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts
  • 2017 Spring, ART 485: Art of Mesoamerica
  • 2018 Fall, ART 385: Art of the Americas
  • 2019 Fall, ART/MST 488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts
  • 2019 Spring, ART 485: Art of Mesoamerica
  • 2020 Fall, ART 487: Art of the Americas
  • 2021 Fall, ART/MST 488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts
  • 2021 Spring, ART 485: Art of Mesoamerica
  • 2022 Fall, ART/MST 488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts
  • Art History Virtual Exhibit

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20th century 20th century art africa african art american midwest american midwest culture american midwest ozarks culture aztec mestizo culture basketry beadwork bonniebrook CASL Exhibit ceramic ceramics conservation early 21st century art footstone gravestone Great Plains Cultures headstone huipil iroquois culture lakota culture late 20th century late 20th century art maya culture mesoamerica metal artifacts mexican mestizo cultures native american art native american cultures Navajo/Diné culture oceania ozarks ozarks culture panama peru ralph foster museum reproductions Sioux Culture textile tourist trade art union campground cemetery yarn zapotec culture

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