Missouri State University

Skip to content Skip to navigation
a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z

Art History Virtual Exhibition

20th-century Andean-Mestizo Textile with Chimú or Moche Motifs: Researched and Conserved by Alyssa Cartier

February, 2023 by Malena Hemenway

Contemporary Peruvian textile artists are predominantly of mixed Andean and Spanish ancestry, and they illustrate a mastery of their craft that draws strongly upon this Andean-Mestizo heritage. Fine textiles served as symbols of wealth and socioeconomic status among Pre-Columbian Andean cultures because of the fine fabrics, their elaborate weaving techniques, and their labor-intensive designs.

Although this textile was created in the 20th century as a souvenir for the tourist-trade, the size and construction of the cloth indicates that the weaver created it using a traditional backstrap loom. This textile also features a repeated border design known as the stepped fret, a motif common throughout Pre-Columbian Andean cultures. The design combines two motifs that likely illustrate the land-water relationship of the Andean region. The stepped motif consists of stair-like steps, which likely symbolize terrace farming in the steep mountainous landscape of eastern Peru. The fret, meanwhile, is an angular spiral shape that likely depicts a wave that symbolizes water and the western coastline of Peru.

The central motif of this textile consists of two simplified figures with triangular torsos and headdresses. The zigzag patterns on the torsos likely illustrate simplified textile motifs, which may indicate region or societal ranking. The projecting headdresses derive from the extravagant, high-status headgear of the ancient Moche and Chimú cultures of northern Peru. These figures may therefore be generalized depictions of deities or supernatural beings — but they could also depict an elite member of Andean society, such as a religious practitioner, a political leader, or a high-status soldier.

Wall Hanging with Pre-Columbian Chimú/Moche Culture Motifs (Before)
Andean-Mestizo cultures
Late 20th century
Woven camelid wool textile and pigments
L. 56.5 cm x W. 5 mm x H. 1.07 m
BFPC collection #2016.31

 

Wall Hanging with Pre-Columbian Chimú/Moche Culture Motifs (After)
Andean-Mestizo cultures
Late 20th century
Woven camelid wool textile and pigments
L. 56.5 cm x W. 5 mm x H. 1.07 m
BFPC collection #2016.31

 

 

For more information, you may contact the researcher(s) noted in the title of this exhibit entry, or Dr. Billie Follensbee, the professor of the course, at BillieFollensbee@MissouriState.edu

 

Filed Under: 2021 Fall, ART/MST 488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts Tagged With: 20th century, andean mestizo culture, andean textiles, backstrap loom, camelid fur, chimu culture, Moche culture, peru, textile, tourist trade art, woven textile

Categories

  • 2014 Fall, ART/MST 488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts
  • 2015 Fall, ART/MST 488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts
  • 2016 Fall, ART 385: Art of the Americas
  • 2016 Spring, ART 386: Art of Africa
  • 2017 Fall, ART/MST 488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts
  • 2018 Fall, ART 385: Art of the Americas
  • 2018 Spring, ART 386: Art of Africa
  • 2019 Fall, ART/MST 488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts
  • 2020 Fall, ART 487: Art of the Americas
  • 2020 Spring, ART 386: Art of Africa
  • 2021 Fall, ART/MST 488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts
  • 2022 Fall, ART/MST 488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts
  • 2024 Fall, ART/MST488: Basic Conservation of Art and Artifacts
  • 2025 Spring, ART486: Art of Africa
  • Art History Virtual Exhibit

Tags

19th century 20th century 20th century art africa african art African basketry akua'ba american midwest american midwest ozarks culture asante culture bamana culture basketry baule culture beadwork berber culture bonniebrook CASL Exhibit ceramic ceramics ceremonial masks conservation cowrie shells footstone gravestone Great Plains Cultures headstone kente cloth lakota culture luba culture maasai culture mask metal artifacts Navajo/Diné culture ndebele culture oceania ozarks culture panama peru senufo culture Sioux Culture staffs staffs of power textile tourist trade art zulu culture

Meta

  • Log in
  • Entries feed
  • Comments feed
  • WordPress.org
  • Accessibility
  • Disclaimer
  • Disclosures
  • Equal Opportunity Employer and Institution
  • © 2026 Board of Governors, Missouri State University
  • Contact Information